Zenkoji

Zenkō-ji is a large temple located in Nagano City, Nagano Prefecture, with a history of about 1,400 years since its founding. Widely known throughout Japan, it has long attracted the devotion of ordinary people and has been revered as a “temple for the common people,” welcoming everyone without discrimination regardless of sect, gender, or social status.

As a place where people can form a connection with Amida Nyorai, Zenkō-ji has served as a spiritual refuge and has earned deep and broad faith over many years.

The temple grounds are said to cover about 59,000 square meters, and within the precincts are Daisan Shin-in, Daibon-gan, and 39 shukubō temple lodgings, forming an exceptionally large temple complex. The temple reportedly receives about 6 million visitors annually, drawing many people from both Japan and abroad.

History and the Spread of Faith

Since its founding, Zenkō-ji has received deep devotion from historical figures such as Minamoto no Yoritomo, Takeda Shingen, and Tokugawa Ieyasu. In particular, during the Edo period, pilgrimages by common people became very popular, and so many people visited that it became known as a place one should visit “at least once in a lifetime.”

It is also widely known nationwide through the saying, “Brought by a cow to Zenkō-ji.”

Zenkō-ji is further associated with the Battle of Kawanakajima during the Sengoku period, when Uesugi Kenshin is said to have established his headquarters near the temple.

The Main Deity of Zenkō-ji (Ikkō Sanzon Amida Nyorai)

The principal image of Zenkō-ji is Ikkō Sanzon Amida Nyorai. This form features Amida Nyorai in the center, flanked by Kannon Bosatsu and Seishi Bosatsu on either side within a single halo, and is also specifically called the “Zenkō-ji style Amida triad.”

It is said to be one of the Buddhist images brought to Japan when Buddhism was first introduced, and is also regarded as the oldest Buddhist statue in Japan.

However, because the principal image is an “absolute hidden Buddha,” it is not normally visible to the public and is enshrined in the innermost area of the main hall, the Ruridan platform.

Features of the Main Hall of Zenkō-ji (National Treasure)

The main hall of Zenkō-ji is a very large wooden structure built in 1707 and designated a National Treasure. It is also known as one of the largest National Treasure wooden buildings in eastern Japan.

Seen from above, the hall has a T-shaped layout resembling a shumoku, the mallet used to strike a bell, and this style is called “shumoku-zukuri.”

Inside the hall, the space is arranged so that the entrance side represents the secular world, while the innermost area represents paradise.

Enma Daio is placed in the outer sanctuary and is worshipped as the judge of human sins. In the inner sanctuary are Miroku Bosatsu and Jizo Bosatsu, symbolizing salvation in the secular world. At the very back, on the Ruridan platform, the hidden principal image is enshrined.

The hall hosts the daily “Asaji” morning service, allowing visitors to experience a solemn religious ritual.

Okaidan Meguri: A Key Ritual of the Zenkō-ji Pilgrimage

One of the most famous practices at Zenkō-ji is the Okaidan Meguri. This ritual involves walking through a pitch-dark corridor beneath the main hall and passing directly under the principal image in order to form a spiritual connection for rebirth in paradise.

The passage is so dark that one cannot see even a step ahead, and visitors move forward by feeling their way along the walls. By touching the “lock of paradise” along the way, it is believed one can form a direct bond with the principal image.

Ojuzu Chōdai

At Zenkō-ji, before and after the Asaji morning service, the head priest also performs “Ojuzu Chōdai,” in which he gently touches visitors’ heads with a Buddhist rosary to bestow merit. This is a popular and uniquely Zenkō-ji experience, offering visitors a profound religious encounter, though it may be canceled depending on circumstances.

Binzuru Sonja

The first figure visitors notice upon entering the main hall is Binzuru Sonja. For over 300 years, the statue has been continuously rubbed by countless people, leaving its surface smooth and polished.

It is believed that rubbing the same area of the statue as one’s own ailment can bring healing from illness or pain, making it one of the symbolic icons of a visit to Zenkō-ji.

Sanmon Gate

The Sanmon gate in front of Zenkō-ji’s main hall was built in 1750 and is known as a grand and impressive gate. It displays the famous “Hatoji” plaque.

“Hatoji” comes from the legend that five pigeons are hidden within the characters for “Zenkō-ji.”

The upper level of the gate is open to visitors and houses a statue of Monju Bosatsu riding a lion, statues of the Four Heavenly Kings, and Buddhist statues associated with the Shikoku 88 Sacred Sites. From the corridor, visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of Nagano City and look down on the main hall from above.

Kyōzō

The Kyōzō was built in 1759 and contains an octagonal rotating sutra repository called a rinzō. Inside the rinzō is the Issaikyō, a complete collection of Buddhist scriptures.

Visitors can actually turn the rinzō themselves, and doing so is believed to bring the same merit as reading all the sutras stored inside. This hands-on experience, even at a designated Important Cultural Property, is one of Zenkō-ji’s great attractions.

Niōmon Gate

The Niōmon gate, serving as the entrance to the Zenkō-ji pilgrimage route, was built in 1918. It houses Niō guardian statues that protect the temple from Buddhist enemies.

On the front side are the Agyō and Ungyō statues, while on the back side are Sanbō Kōjin and Sanmen Daikokuten. The Niō statues were created by Takamura Kōun and Yonehara Unkai, and are notable for standing securely without support in a remarkably balanced composition.

Nihon Chūreiden

At Nihon Chūreiden, memorial services are held for war dead from the Boshin War through World War II. The adjoining museum also exhibits items related to Zenkō-ji’s history, as well as a sand mandala consecrated by the 14th Dalai Lama.

Daikanjin and Daibon-gan: The Center of Temple Administration and Preservation

Although Zenkō-ji is known as a non-sectarian temple, it is currently maintained and administered by the Tendai sect’s Daikanjin and the Jōdo sect’s Daibon-gan.

Daikanjin is the head temple on the Tendai side, and Daibon-gan is the head temple on the Jōdo side, both playing vital roles in supporting Zenkō-ji. The chief priests of both temples also serve as the priests of Zenkō-ji.

Nakamise Street and the Highlights of the Precincts

Along Zenkō-ji’s approach is Nakamise Street, where many shops line both sides of the stone-paved path, offering meals and souvenirs. The stone pavement leading to the main hall is said to consist of about 7,777 stones, making it one of the temple’s highlights.

Heading north along Nakamise Street, visitors can also see Komagaeshi Bridge, where Minamoto no Yoritomo’s horse is said to have caught its hoof.

On the west side of the Sanmon gate are many historical highlights, including the Eko-cho no Sho, Tsumebori Nyorai, Buddha’s footprints, and the memorial tower for the Sato brothers. In particular, the Eko-cho is a pillar erected once every seven years during the Great Kaichō, and after the event it is moved to the storage site and returned to the earth.

Goshuin, Sacred Goods, and Temple Lodgings

Zenkō-ji offers a wide variety of goshuin seals. In addition to the standard “Zenkō-ji” seal, goshuin related to the rubbing Buddha, Binzuru Sonja, Sanmon, Kyōzō, and Chūreiden are also available. Special goshuin may also be issued depending on the season.

On the east side of the precincts is the place where sacred items are distributed, where visitors can receive amulets, talismans, and omikuji fortune slips. At the nokyō office, visitors can also apply for prayers and memorial services, as well as receive goshuin seals.

In addition, Zenkō-ji has 39 shukubō temple lodgings lined along the approach. They are also used as accommodations for pilgrims, and those with “in” in their names are temples of the Tendai sect, while those with “bō” are temples of the Jōdo sect.

The Kaichō: A Major Event Held Once Every Seven Years

One of Zenkō-ji’s major events is the Zenkō-ji Maedachi Honzon Kaichō, held once every seven years according to the traditional counting system. In this event, the front-facing principal image, which serves as a substitute for the hidden main deity normally kept concealed, is unveiled, attracting large numbers of pilgrims from across Japan.

Zenkō-ji is a historic temple that has attracted people’s faith for about 1,400 years and is widely known nationwide as a “temple for the common people” that welcomes everyone regardless of sect. Centered on its National Treasure main hall, the hidden principal image, and the Ikkō Sanzon Amida Nyorai, one of its greatest charms is the opportunity to experience unique religious practices such as Okaidan Meguri and Asaji.

It also features many Important Cultural Properties such as the Sanmon gate, Kyōzō, and Niōmon gate, along with the atmosphere of Nakamise Street and the temple lodgings. Furthermore, the once-every-seven-years Kaichō is a special event symbolizing the faith of Zenkō-ji and continues to draw many people.

Zenkō-ji remains, both now and in the past, a place of spiritual refuge for people and a temple that continues to be deeply and broadly revered.