Miwa Town Udattsu no Machinami

Waki-cho Udatsu Street is a historic townscape located in Waki-cho, Mima City, Tokushima Prefecture. Traditional buildings constructed from the mid-Edo period to the early Showa period line the street for approximately 430 meters, making it one of Tokushima’s premier historical tourist attractions. The town developed as an important transportation hub, benefiting from boat transport on the Yoshino River, and flourished greatly during the Edo period as a distribution center for Awa indigo. In 1988, it was designated by the national government as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings, and it still retains strong traces of its former prosperity.

Waki-cho first developed as a castle town around Waki Castle and later prospered as a key transportation center where the water routes of the Yoshino River intersected with the Muya Kaido and Sanuki Kaido highways. From the mid-Edo period onward, in particular, the town grew substantially as a distribution center for Awa indigo, and many indigo merchants conducted business there. It is said that more than 100 indigo merchants once stood side by side along the streets. Magnificent merchant houses belonging to wealthy traders lined the town, and many still convey the prosperity of that era today.

The most distinctive feature of the townscape is the fireproof walls known as “udatsu.” These are tiled and plastered wing walls installed at both ends of traditional townhouses to prevent fires from spreading to neighboring buildings. Although they were originally constructed as fire-prevention facilities, their installation required considerable expense, and they gradually became symbols of wealth, social status, and success. They are said to be the origin of the Japanese expressions “udatsu ga agaru” (“one’s udatsu rises,” meaning to prosper) and “udatsu ga agaranai” (“one’s udatsu does not rise,” meaning to remain unsuccessful). Some are particularly elaborate, featuring ridge-end tiles decorated with family crests, offering a glimpse into the prosperity of the wealthy merchants of the time.

Approximately 85 traditional buildings constructed from the mid-Edo period to the early Showa period remain within the current preservation district. Visitors can see traditional Japanese townhouse features up close, including white-plastered walls, lattice doors, mushiko windows, shitomi shutters, and storehouses. Simply walking through the streets can make visitors feel as if they have traveled back in time from the Edo period to the Meiji period, making the area popular with many tourists and photography enthusiasts.

One of the townscape’s most representative buildings is the Yoshida Residence, known by the indigo merchant name “Sanao.” It was the estate of the wealthy Yoshida family, which began its business in 1792. Five buildings remain on the approximately 2,000-square-meter grounds, including the main house, indigo storehouses, and a storehouse formerly used for pawned goods, all constructed from the mid- to late Edo period. The residence is now open to the public as a designated cultural property of Mima City. With approximately 25 rooms, including the main house, a bookkeeping office, and formal reception rooms, it offers insight into the lifestyle and business activities of wealthy merchants of the time.

The Mima City Tourism Exchange Center is a popular starting point for exploring the town. Housed in a renovated traditional residence, the center provides tourist information and a rest area, as well as indigo-dyeing experiences using natural indigo and dining featuring local ingredients. The surrounding area also offers opportunities to experience Waki-cho’s unique culture and traditional crafts, including Ai-gura, which sells local specialties and indigo-dyed products; Mirai Kobo, where visitors can observe and try making Mima Japanese umbrellas; and workshops that produce and sell bamboo dolls depicting Awa Odori dancers.

The townscape also has a different character during the day and at night. In daylight, the white walls and tiled roofs stand out against the blue sky, creating a landscape rich in historic charm. In the evening, when lantern-style streetlights are lit, the town is enveloped in a fantastical and peaceful atmosphere. Strolling through the quiet streets after dusk is popular because it allows visitors to enjoy a charm quite different from that of the daytime.

By using a volunteer guide service available by reservation, visitors can learn more about the history of the indigo merchants, the features of the buildings, and episodes associated with the udatsu. Exploring the town while deepening one’s understanding of its history and architecture makes for an even more rewarding experience.

Waki-cho Udatsu Street is a rare historic landscape in Japan, where the merchant culture that flourished through Awa indigo harmonizes with beautiful townhouse architecture passed down since the Edo period. Walking along the white-plastered streets lined with udatsu allows visitors to sense the prosperity and way of life of the wealthy merchants of the time. With its history, architecture, traditional culture, craft experiences, and local cuisine, it is one of Tokushima Prefecture’s premier historical tourist attractions.