Kenninji Temple

Kenin-ji Temple, located in Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, is the main temple of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism and is known as the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto. Founded in 1202 during the Kenin era by Zen Master Eisai, who returned from Song China, the temple was established after the second shogun of the Kamakura shogunate, Minamoto no Yoriie, donated the land.

At its founding, Kenin-ji served as a training hall for Zen, Tendai, and Esoteric Buddhism, flexibly adapting to the religious landscape of the time. Later, in 1258, Enni Ben’en, the founder of Tofuku-ji Temple, temporarily entered the temple and worked on its revival, and it is said that in 1259, the Song-era Zen monk Ranke Doryu, also the founder of Kencho-ji Temple, stayed there temporarily. Through this evolution, Kenin-ji gradually established itself as a pure Zen dojo, strictly adhering to Zen practices and regulations.

During the Muromachi period, the Muromachi shogunate established the "Kyoto Gozan" system, modeled after Chinese institutions, ranking Kenin-ji as the third temple, receiving strong support from the shogunate, and thriving significantly. However, many of its structures were destroyed due to wars and recurrent fires, particularly suffering massive damage during a great fire in the mid-16th century.

In the 4th year of the Keicho era (1599), the reconstruction began with the relocation of the Hōjō from Ankokuji Temple in Aki, and during the Edo period, various halls were developed under the protection of the Tokugawa shogunate, establishing systems and scholarship. In the Meiji period, due to government religious policies, it became independent as the Rinzai sect of Kenin-ji and served as the head temple of that sect. The influence of the destruction of Buddhism also led to the consolidation of sub-temples, shrinking the temple grounds to about half its original size.

The layout of Kenin-ji’s temple complex is a typical Zen temple structure where the main gate, the Sanmon, and the Hōdō are aligned in a straight line with the Chokushi-mon serving as the front gate, which is a four-legged gate with a copper roof and gabled style, designated as an Important Cultural Property of the nation. It is also referred to as the "Arrowroot Gate" or "Yatate-mon" due to the battle scars found on the gateposts and doors.

The Hōdō was rebuilt in 1765 and is a single-story Buddhist hall with five ken by four ken, featuring an elegant design with a shōgai (a raised platform). The ceiling is adorned with a colossal "Twin Dragons" mural painted by artist Junzaku Koizumi in 2002, commemorating the 800th anniversary of the temple’s founding. This striking ceiling painting spans the size of 108 tatami mats and overwhelms visitors with its grandeur.

The Hōjō, located to the north, was relocated from Ankokuji Temple and is an Important Cultural Property that retains many characteristics of the Momoyama period. The interior features all 50 fusuma paintings by the artist Kaiba Yūshō, creating a majestic atmosphere. In front of the Hōjō, the Karesansui garden "Daiyūen," paved with white sand, evokes the tranquility of Zen and a refined aesthetic sensibility.

Additionally, high-precision reproductions of the National Treasure "Fūjin Raijin-zu Byōbu," attributed to the artist Sotatsu Tawaraya, are displayed in the main hall, allowing visitors to appreciate them alongside works by Kaiba Yūshō. The original pieces are entrusted to the Kyoto National Museum.

Culturally, the annual "Yotsukado Tea Ceremony" is held on April 20, coinciding with the birthday of the temple’s founder, Zen Master Eisai, who brought tea seeds back to Japan and popularized tea drinking. This ceremonial tea gathering follows the traditional "Yotsu-uchi" method and attracts many tea practitioners and visitors.

Moreover, every second Sunday morning, a Zazen experience called "Chiko-kai" occurs, where participants practice Zazen for two hours starting at 7:30 AM, followed by a Dharma talk, providing a precious opportunity for the general public to engage with Zen philosophy. Groups, such as school trips, can also participate through prior consultation.

The temple grounds feature 14 sub-temples, including the Reido-in, some of which are not open to the public, while certain sub-temples, gardens, and tea rooms are accessible. By exploring these, visitors can deepen their understanding of the multifaceted allure of Kenin-ji and the Zen worldview.

In this way, Kenin-ji Temple stands as one of Kyoto’s most distinguished temples, blending its history as Japan’s oldest Zen temple with diverse cultural elements such as architecture, painting, gardens, tea ceremony, and Zazen, offering a serene and dignified presence that deeply impresses and soothes all who visit.