Kōdaiji

Kodaiji is a Zen temple of the Kenninji school of Rinzai Buddhism, founded in 1606 by Nene (Kita-no-Mandokoro, later known as Koda-in Kogetsuni), the principal wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, to pray for the repose of her late husband. Its official name is Kodaiju-shozenji, and it is located at the foot of Mount Higashiyama, in the Ryozen area of Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto.

At the time of its founding, Tokugawa Ieyasu provided substantial financial support for political reasons, enabling the construction of a magnificent temple complex. In 1624, the temple invited the eminent monk Sanko Joeki of Kenninji as its founding abbot, and the temple name “Kodaiji” was established.

Within the grounds, many buildings relocated from Fushimi Castle, where Hideyoshi and Nene spent their final years, still remain. The main gate, the Founder’s Hall, the mausoleum, the Kankyodai viewing platform, and the tea houses Kasatei and Shiguretei all survive today and have been designated Important Cultural Properties of Japan.

In particular, the mausoleum houses wooden statues of Hideyoshi and Nene, while the space beneath the floor serves as Nene’s grave. Inside are a maki-e lacquered Buddhist altar and stand adorned with gold lacquer by the workshop of Koaми Choan, a lacquer artist who served Hideyoshi. These masterpieces, known as “Kodaiji makie,” are highly esteemed as outstanding examples of Momoyama-period lacquerware. The interior wall paintings, created by Kano Mitsunobu and his school, depict scenes such as Hamamatsu and bird-and-flower motifs in a solemn, elegant manner.

The Founder’s Hall was originally built as a personal Buddhist hall, and its ceiling incorporates materials from Hideyoshi’s state boat and the imperial carriage used by Nene, preserving the design sensibilities of the Momoyama period to this day.

The garden is a pond-stroll garden said to have been designed by Kobori Enshu, using Mount Higashiyama as borrowed scenery, and has been designated both a Historic Site and Place of Scenic Beauty by the Japanese government. Centered on the Founder’s Hall, it features Engetsu-chi and Garyo-chi ponds, with an atmosphere of landscape garden scenery enriched by Turtle Island and Crane Island. The autumn foliage is especially beautiful, and Kodaiji is known as one of Kyoto’s premier places to see fall colors, attracting many visitors.

Kasatei and Shiguretei are tea houses from the Momoyama period, relocated from the remains of Fushimi Castle and connected by an earthen-floored corridor. Kasatei is distinguished by its decorative ceiling structure resembling an opened parasol, while Shiguretei is a two-story tea house, with the first floor serving as a preparation area and waiting room, and the second floor as the tea room. According to legend, when Osaka Castle fell, people connected to the Toyotomi clan watched the events from this place.

In front of the main hall’s Hojo lies a dry landscape garden called Hashintei, where colorful sand patterns and designs are created seasonally and are one of its highlights. In spring, weeping cherry blossoms adorn the garden, creating a beautiful contrast with the white gravel.

At Kodaiji Ungoan within the temple grounds, visitors can enjoy matcha while overlooking a beautiful garden, offering a peaceful moment of relaxation.

Kodaiji is not only a sacred religious site, but also a treasure house of art and history that conveys the beauty and spirit of Momoyama culture to the present day. This place, marked by Nene’s profound love and remembrance, continues to be cherished by many as one of Kyoto’s most celebrated temples.